|
| Click the links below to navigate to a specific article, or read all the way through. |
A while back we discovered that with more than one or two dogs, we, in order to get
them all the desired experience that they needed on wild birds, needed another
season. The three months in the fall just wasn’t enough. We needed “two seasons”
In northern Lower Michigan our spring season starts as soon as the ground begins to
get bare and ends mid April (check your states regulations on running dogs). The
armament requirements change with seasons. In the spring the 16 ga. stays at home
and we bring out the Canon. (A Nikon will work, just doesn’t sound as good) We
“choke” the Canon tightly as the birds are very jumpy due to the lack of ground cover.
(80-200 mm). All other equipment requirements are the same as the fall. If you have
ever considered shooting your dog this would be a good time. Maybe you could take
someone else along and they could shoot you.
Spring season is a time when one can focus completely on dog work and add another
dimension to their knowledge of the birds. The birds tend to be wilder in the spring
due to the lack of ground cover; even woodcock which generally hold well can be
difficult to approach. This is a good time to add to the experience level of young dogs
and fine tune the older ones.
We make a game of stalking wild grouse; the object of course is for the dogs to
handle the birds properly and to hold them on point. The dogs must learn to be extra
cautious and handle the birds very carefully. Grouse can and do run, fast and far,
often they will flush out of hearing range. I have heard over the years some hunters
complain of “false pointing”. I believe if they would actually pay more attention to their
dogs and learn more about the birds, they wouldn’t be so quick to find “false” fault. I
have numerous times watched grouse run off a point. A good grouse dog is a
cautious one, some “false points” are certainly better than flushing birds out of
shooting range. Experience is the key. If done right these wild birds can really help
build teamwork between you and your dog. A good dog will become very catlike in
their approach to the bird, and will wait for you to catch up before continuing if the bird
does move.
We promote this behavior by whoaing the dog until we circle in front; if the bird
doesn’t flush we release the dog quietly saying “careful”. Sometimes the bird will be
pointed numerous times before they hold. It’s a trial and error deal, especially with the
young dogs. It is a great way to learn to read your dog’s body language when they
are working birds, and it reinforces the fact that we hunt together, which these guys
are inclined to do anyway. We don’t care about “mistakes;” they learn, and we learn.
You can’t shoot the birds this time of the year anyway. Unless you have your Canon.
And if your dog will hold while you dillydally around in front of them taking “shots” like
these, you may be getting some where.
them all the desired experience that they needed on wild birds, needed another
season. The three months in the fall just wasn’t enough. We needed “two seasons”
In northern Lower Michigan our spring season starts as soon as the ground begins to
get bare and ends mid April (check your states regulations on running dogs). The
armament requirements change with seasons. In the spring the 16 ga. stays at home
and we bring out the Canon. (A Nikon will work, just doesn’t sound as good) We
“choke” the Canon tightly as the birds are very jumpy due to the lack of ground cover.
(80-200 mm). All other equipment requirements are the same as the fall. If you have
ever considered shooting your dog this would be a good time. Maybe you could take
someone else along and they could shoot you.
Spring season is a time when one can focus completely on dog work and add another
dimension to their knowledge of the birds. The birds tend to be wilder in the spring
due to the lack of ground cover; even woodcock which generally hold well can be
difficult to approach. This is a good time to add to the experience level of young dogs
and fine tune the older ones.
We make a game of stalking wild grouse; the object of course is for the dogs to
handle the birds properly and to hold them on point. The dogs must learn to be extra
cautious and handle the birds very carefully. Grouse can and do run, fast and far,
often they will flush out of hearing range. I have heard over the years some hunters
complain of “false pointing”. I believe if they would actually pay more attention to their
dogs and learn more about the birds, they wouldn’t be so quick to find “false” fault. I
have numerous times watched grouse run off a point. A good grouse dog is a
cautious one, some “false points” are certainly better than flushing birds out of
shooting range. Experience is the key. If done right these wild birds can really help
build teamwork between you and your dog. A good dog will become very catlike in
their approach to the bird, and will wait for you to catch up before continuing if the bird
does move.
We promote this behavior by whoaing the dog until we circle in front; if the bird
doesn’t flush we release the dog quietly saying “careful”. Sometimes the bird will be
pointed numerous times before they hold. It’s a trial and error deal, especially with the
young dogs. It is a great way to learn to read your dog’s body language when they
are working birds, and it reinforces the fact that we hunt together, which these guys
are inclined to do anyway. We don’t care about “mistakes;” they learn, and we learn.
You can’t shoot the birds this time of the year anyway. Unless you have your Canon.
And if your dog will hold while you dillydally around in front of them taking “shots” like
these, you may be getting some where.
| "I myself have had setters of marvelous sagacity, whose penetration into my intentions, whose reflections and method and deductions, have startled me at times and who acted from a power to which I should hesitate to give the name of instinct.” ~ Rev. T. Pearce owner of a flourishing Gordon Setter kennel during the 19th century Gordon Setters Today, Jose Baddeley, Ringpress Books Ltd., 1994 |
Return to top
Your expectations of your dog, to a large degree, determine the end result. Many
never realize what their dog is truly capable of, due to not knowing what should be
expected of the dog (and yourself), and not training and/or following through with
training while actually hunting. Equally important is not properly relating to the dog
and/or underestimating their abilities. Over the years, and countless hours hunting
with this “type” of Gordon, we have developed a tremendous respect for these dogs;
for what they are, what they are capable of, and how they do their job. They have
consistently shown themselves to be a highly intelligent animal, biddable (willing to
do one’s bidding), with a tremendous since of smell, and great pointers with a
unique disposition and attitude. Of course, our hunting/training techniques and
attitude have been formed to fit the “type”, not trying to change what they are, but to
understand and utilize their assets.
It is our hope that those who have our dogs fully realize what these dogs are
capable of in the field and they place high expectations on their dog’s abilities.
Through understanding the importance and purpose of training, building confidence
and trust between dog and owner, the partnership will achieve things they could
only have imagined. Those that have our dogs for the purpose of hunting have
seen their puppy point birds as those shown above. Let that mental picture serve
as a reminder of the wonderful potential that these great dogs possess.
There are certainly things you can do with your Gordon that are very beneficial in
helping them understand their role in the field, and definitely there are things you
can do that are a determent to their development
There are two main issues that I believe to be the crux of hunting for the hunter:
how the dog handles and how the dog handles birds. How the dog handles is greatly
influenced by, you guessed it, YOU! “The dog…can have no doubt about the trainer’
s interest in him, his concern for the dog. Confidence in you is obedience to you .
Get these two ideas firmly fixed in the dogs mind and you have a clear road ahead.
Go after your objectives….it is only a matter of time and patience until your dogs will
do exactly what you want them to do.” This is a quote from Er M. Shelley contained
in the most wonderful little book ever written on gun dog training, Common Sense
Grouse and Woodcock Dog Training, by Roy W. Strickland. The process of how
your dog handles in the field begins when they go home with
you!!
Obviously a good dog must actively search for birds. At which range they should
do this is subject to much debate. When hunting, I do not apply a set range criteria
to them. With these Gordons range is a balance between their desire to hunt and
their desire to be in contact with us. Depending on the cover, it could be 20 yds. or
200, it really doesn’t matter. More important is that they hunt for us, their partner,
and they handle birds well. Range is dealt with by focusing on other details which
actually create the dog’s effective range. Being attentive to your dog is the base for
building an effective form of communication with them. By their nature they are
inclined to check in with you, and you, by your actions, can either promote this or
ignore it, to your loss.
Pay attention to your dog and notice how attentive they are to you. This mere act
of interest on your part is essential to the dog. They thrive on the bond they develop
with their owners. When they check in, a quiet verbal reward is what they like and all
they need from you. I am in the habit of simply holding out my hand to them which
they touch with their nose and happily continue hunting. For those who truly enjoy
the dogs and watching them work, this attribute of the dogs can lead to some
amazing feats of teamwork when hunting. For those who are indifferent to their dogs
or hunt as though they have blinders on, they stand a good chance of developing
problems with range and the dogs hunting for themselves. Gordons are very
intuitive to the attitudes and actions of their humans.
The key to developing a good gun dog is setting the proper goals and being
consistent with following through. That and getting the dogs (and yourself) as much
experience as possible with wild birds. You cannot expect an inexperienced dog to
handle wild birds well. Particularly the Ruffed Grouse, which tends to be a very fickle
bird. You can however, expect your dog to learn how to handle them and do it very
well. The key for the hunter is to put their interest in the dog and the dog’s
performance before anything else. A couple of critical errors many people make are
not following through with training and shooting birds that the dog has
flushed.
We do not place expectations on young dogs, particularly the first year, except
that they learn and progress as a gun dog. They must comprehend that their role as
a pointer is to point birds and afford you the opportunity to shoot. Your role is to
visualize the end result, a competent and dependable gun dog. And focus on what it
takes to achieve this. They will, through inexperience, exuberance and
carelessness flush birds. With youngsters, birds flushed are not an opportunity to
shoot, but an opportunity for the dogs to learn. When the dog flushes a bird, take
them back to where they were and make them “whoa”, and then lead them in a
direction other than where the bird went. If you pursue the same bird it will be warier
and more difficult for the dog. We are looking for success, not setting the dog up for
failure. Birds are flushed because the dog gets to close to them. The dog must learn
to be cautious. This is where the usefulness of “whoa” training becomes very
apparent and if you are looking for a shortcut for success “whoa” would be it. Watch
for the most opportune moments for correction. As you learn your dog’s body
language when they are working birds you can sometimes stop them from bumping
the bird with “whoa” or a “pip” of the whistle. Paying close attention to your dog you
can tell when there is just enough hesitancy, as to when they should stop and point
but they want to get just a little closer which will result in a flushed bird. In a
circumstance like this and the dog “whoa’s” on command it would be most opportune
to shoot at and actually get the bird. Times like these can tie up a lot of loose ends.
Things however, rarely happen perfectly which is good because it forces us to learn
that we cannot control situations with wild birds and must give the dogs latitude and
let them make mistakes. These dogs can and will come to understand your
disappointment when they fail and your excitement when they succeed; please, do
be excited! Being a dog that likes to please, they will use their intelligence to make
adjustments. Just remember what your response to a flushed bird shows them. If
you’re shooting birds that they flushed, you’re essentially showing them it was ok to
flush it. If you don’t shoot them and you use the bird contact for reinforcement that
they are to be pointed, you are reinforcing that they must do what they are bred for.
There are some who have a hard time with not shooting flushed birds, and excuses
abound for not following this philosophy. I am convinced that the difference it makes
is, in the long term, the difference between a mediocre and a good gun dog. The
birds you let go for the sake of your dog’s learning will be more than made up for
over the life of the dog.
There is an important distinction between having a controllable dog and being a
controller. Some just can’t resist constantly chattering to their dogs, directing them
here and there etc. This is not only a distraction to the dog (a good reason to tune
you out) but also alerts every bird in the area that you are coming. As the dogs
learn their craft and you become more confident in their abilities, more and more
latitude should be given. It is the dogs that have the nose, instinct, and intelligence
to find and handle the birds; learn to trust them. You can (and should) get to the
point where you and your dog can practically read each others minds and actions,
hunting in a quiet, confident and relaxed manner.
never realize what their dog is truly capable of, due to not knowing what should be
expected of the dog (and yourself), and not training and/or following through with
training while actually hunting. Equally important is not properly relating to the dog
and/or underestimating their abilities. Over the years, and countless hours hunting
with this “type” of Gordon, we have developed a tremendous respect for these dogs;
for what they are, what they are capable of, and how they do their job. They have
consistently shown themselves to be a highly intelligent animal, biddable (willing to
do one’s bidding), with a tremendous since of smell, and great pointers with a
unique disposition and attitude. Of course, our hunting/training techniques and
attitude have been formed to fit the “type”, not trying to change what they are, but to
understand and utilize their assets.
It is our hope that those who have our dogs fully realize what these dogs are
capable of in the field and they place high expectations on their dog’s abilities.
Through understanding the importance and purpose of training, building confidence
and trust between dog and owner, the partnership will achieve things they could
only have imagined. Those that have our dogs for the purpose of hunting have
seen their puppy point birds as those shown above. Let that mental picture serve
as a reminder of the wonderful potential that these great dogs possess.
There are certainly things you can do with your Gordon that are very beneficial in
helping them understand their role in the field, and definitely there are things you
can do that are a determent to their development
There are two main issues that I believe to be the crux of hunting for the hunter:
how the dog handles and how the dog handles birds. How the dog handles is greatly
influenced by, you guessed it, YOU! “The dog…can have no doubt about the trainer’
s interest in him, his concern for the dog. Confidence in you is obedience to you .
Get these two ideas firmly fixed in the dogs mind and you have a clear road ahead.
Go after your objectives….it is only a matter of time and patience until your dogs will
do exactly what you want them to do.” This is a quote from Er M. Shelley contained
in the most wonderful little book ever written on gun dog training, Common Sense
Grouse and Woodcock Dog Training, by Roy W. Strickland. The process of how
your dog handles in the field begins when they go home with
you!!
Obviously a good dog must actively search for birds. At which range they should
do this is subject to much debate. When hunting, I do not apply a set range criteria
to them. With these Gordons range is a balance between their desire to hunt and
their desire to be in contact with us. Depending on the cover, it could be 20 yds. or
200, it really doesn’t matter. More important is that they hunt for us, their partner,
and they handle birds well. Range is dealt with by focusing on other details which
actually create the dog’s effective range. Being attentive to your dog is the base for
building an effective form of communication with them. By their nature they are
inclined to check in with you, and you, by your actions, can either promote this or
ignore it, to your loss.
Pay attention to your dog and notice how attentive they are to you. This mere act
of interest on your part is essential to the dog. They thrive on the bond they develop
with their owners. When they check in, a quiet verbal reward is what they like and all
they need from you. I am in the habit of simply holding out my hand to them which
they touch with their nose and happily continue hunting. For those who truly enjoy
the dogs and watching them work, this attribute of the dogs can lead to some
amazing feats of teamwork when hunting. For those who are indifferent to their dogs
or hunt as though they have blinders on, they stand a good chance of developing
problems with range and the dogs hunting for themselves. Gordons are very
intuitive to the attitudes and actions of their humans.
The key to developing a good gun dog is setting the proper goals and being
consistent with following through. That and getting the dogs (and yourself) as much
experience as possible with wild birds. You cannot expect an inexperienced dog to
handle wild birds well. Particularly the Ruffed Grouse, which tends to be a very fickle
bird. You can however, expect your dog to learn how to handle them and do it very
well. The key for the hunter is to put their interest in the dog and the dog’s
performance before anything else. A couple of critical errors many people make are
not following through with training and shooting birds that the dog has
flushed.
We do not place expectations on young dogs, particularly the first year, except
that they learn and progress as a gun dog. They must comprehend that their role as
a pointer is to point birds and afford you the opportunity to shoot. Your role is to
visualize the end result, a competent and dependable gun dog. And focus on what it
takes to achieve this. They will, through inexperience, exuberance and
carelessness flush birds. With youngsters, birds flushed are not an opportunity to
shoot, but an opportunity for the dogs to learn. When the dog flushes a bird, take
them back to where they were and make them “whoa”, and then lead them in a
direction other than where the bird went. If you pursue the same bird it will be warier
and more difficult for the dog. We are looking for success, not setting the dog up for
failure. Birds are flushed because the dog gets to close to them. The dog must learn
to be cautious. This is where the usefulness of “whoa” training becomes very
apparent and if you are looking for a shortcut for success “whoa” would be it. Watch
for the most opportune moments for correction. As you learn your dog’s body
language when they are working birds you can sometimes stop them from bumping
the bird with “whoa” or a “pip” of the whistle. Paying close attention to your dog you
can tell when there is just enough hesitancy, as to when they should stop and point
but they want to get just a little closer which will result in a flushed bird. In a
circumstance like this and the dog “whoa’s” on command it would be most opportune
to shoot at and actually get the bird. Times like these can tie up a lot of loose ends.
Things however, rarely happen perfectly which is good because it forces us to learn
that we cannot control situations with wild birds and must give the dogs latitude and
let them make mistakes. These dogs can and will come to understand your
disappointment when they fail and your excitement when they succeed; please, do
be excited! Being a dog that likes to please, they will use their intelligence to make
adjustments. Just remember what your response to a flushed bird shows them. If
you’re shooting birds that they flushed, you’re essentially showing them it was ok to
flush it. If you don’t shoot them and you use the bird contact for reinforcement that
they are to be pointed, you are reinforcing that they must do what they are bred for.
There are some who have a hard time with not shooting flushed birds, and excuses
abound for not following this philosophy. I am convinced that the difference it makes
is, in the long term, the difference between a mediocre and a good gun dog. The
birds you let go for the sake of your dog’s learning will be more than made up for
over the life of the dog.
There is an important distinction between having a controllable dog and being a
controller. Some just can’t resist constantly chattering to their dogs, directing them
here and there etc. This is not only a distraction to the dog (a good reason to tune
you out) but also alerts every bird in the area that you are coming. As the dogs
learn their craft and you become more confident in their abilities, more and more
latitude should be given. It is the dogs that have the nose, instinct, and intelligence
to find and handle the birds; learn to trust them. You can (and should) get to the
point where you and your dog can practically read each others minds and actions,
hunting in a quiet, confident and relaxed manner.
Puppies -- Where do we go from here?
| Copyright © 2007 Two Seasons Farm All rights reserved. |
Return to top
